Pottery Glazing Techniques: Layering, Wax Resist, Pouring, and More

Once you know how to get an even coat of glaze on a pot, the fun really starts. A few simple techniques can turn one or two glazes into a whole range of looks. Here are the ones potters use most, with tips to get them right the first time.

New to glazing? Start with how to glaze bisqueware and dipping vs. brushing, then come back here.

1. Layering glazes

Layering is putting one glaze over another. Where the two overlap, they melt together and can make new colors, breaks, and movement you would never get from a single glaze.

• Put the stiffer glaze on the bottom. A matte or satin base with a glossy or fluid glaze on top usually gives the most interesting results.
• Keep the top layer thin. Two full coats stacked together are much thicker than one, and thick glaze runs.
• Layer on the upper half only. Leave the bottom inch or two with a single glaze so any running stops before it reaches the shelf.
• Stay in the same firing range. Layer cone 4 to 6 glazes with other cone 4 to 6 glazes. Mixing ranges can leave one glaze underfired or make the other run.

Our midrange glazes are a great place to start layering. Many of them list a favorite pairing right on the product page.

2. Wax resist

Wax resist is a liquid wax you brush onto bisque where you do not want glaze to stick. When you dip or brush glaze over it, the glaze beads up and wipes right off.

• Wax the foot first. This is the easiest way to keep glaze off the bottom of a pot.
• Use it for designs. Paint a pattern in wax, glaze over it, and the clay or first glaze shows through in the shape you painted.
• Let it dry fully. Give wax about 15 minutes to set before glazing over it.
• Keep a brush just for wax. Wax ruins brushes for glaze, so dedicate one cheap brush to it.
• Sponge off any beads. Small drops of glaze can sit on top of the wax. Wipe them with a damp sponge before firing.

3. Double dipping and overlaps

Dip half of a pot in one glaze, then dip the other half in a second glaze so the two overlap through the middle. The overlap line becomes a band of a third color.

• Count the seconds for each dip. Two to three seconds is typical, and an overlap should be shorter.
• Try dipping at an angle for a diagonal band, or dip the rim a second time for a darker lip.

4. Pouring glaze

Pouring is the easiest way to glaze the inside of a mug, vase, or bowl. Fill the piece about a third of the way, roll it so the glaze coats every wall, then pour it out in one smooth motion while turning the piece.

Glaze the inside first, let it dry, then glaze the outside. You can also pour glaze over the outside of a large bowl held over a bucket for loose, flowing patterns.

5. Underglaze under clear

For bold, crisp color and painted designs, use underglazes. They stay put in the kiln instead of moving like glaze, so your lines and details stay sharp.

• Paint 2 to 3 coats on greenware or bisque for solid color.
• Cover with a clear glaze to make the surface glossy and food safe.
• Try sgraffito: paint underglaze on leather hard clay, then carve through it to reveal the clay underneath.

6. Sponging, splatter, and trailing

• Sponging: Dab a second glaze over a dry first coat with a natural sponge for a soft, speckled texture.
• Splatter: Flick glaze off a stiff brush for a speckled, random look.
• Trailing: Fill a squeeze bottle with glaze and draw lines or dots on top of another glaze. Find bottles in our bottles and tips.

7. Raku glazing

Raku is a fast firing where pieces come out of the kiln red hot and go straight into a can of combustibles like newspaper or sawdust. The smoke and reduction create crackle, metallic flashes, and iridescent colors that change with every firing.

• Use a clay made for thermal shock, like our raku clay.
• Apply raku glazes in one thin coat. Thick raku glaze tends to crawl.
• Raku pieces are decorative only and are not safe for food or drink.

Always make test tiles

Glaze looks different on every clay body, at every thickness, and in every kiln. Before you glaze a piece you care about, make a few small tiles with the same clay, try your layers and techniques, and fire them with your next load. Write the combination on the back with an underglaze pencil so you always know what you used.

Something did not turn out the way you hoped? Check our guide to common glaze problems and how to fix them.

Want to practice these techniques?

Our glaze your own pottery kits include bisque pieces and a set of glazes that layer well together, a great way to try wax resist and layering without buying everything separately. Throwing your own pieces? Check out our clay and wheel throwing kits.